On the pier in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia
By John Murphy
Wondering what to do this summer? Friends of ours asked us that last year and since we had a family reunion coming up in PEI, we invited them to join us. My wife has family there, I grew up in Dartmouth, NS, and our friends’ family also had roots. We made it a three-week adventure across four provinces. No matter how much time you take, there is plenty of adventure, interesting sites to see, and memories to be had.
The first night was spent in Levis, QC, and then onward to New Brunswick. Past Levis, the highway is smooth sailing to Fredericton. This city is compact with elm-lined streets and the St. John River sets a tranquil tone. Cousins took us to the Beaverbrook Art Gallery and then on a riverside trail walk that led to our choice of pints at Picaroons, just one of the many craft brewers in this historic city.
Then we were off to Saint John to see more family and the tides of the Bay of Fundy: mid tide at the Reversing Falls and low tide at St. Martins Sea Caves. Seafood was a must and Spinney’s Seafood Market was perfect ‒ no indoor dining, just picnic tables and sunshine. It was at this point that I started my quest for the best seafood chowder place out east. Theirs was pretty good but too soon to tell.
From Saint John, the Digby ferry took us to Nova Scotia. We travelled the scenic route to Wolfville and explored Annapolis Royal’s shops, trails and its Acadian history. That afternoon we had booked one of many wine tours in Annapolis Valley and were not disappointed. On a bit of a whim, we called on a friend of a friend who lived in former prime minister Robert Borden’s childhood home. I have driven by these old “Four Square” homes many times and wondered about their history and how large families got along in these small houses.
Coastal Villages and Ocean Stories
We ventured to the postcard perfect South Shore where we explored Lunenburg’s brightly painted homes and shops on quiet streets. I must add that no matter where you are out east, conversations are easy. It feels like two people sharing a moment, let’s see where it goes. It’s kind and often you know someone in common.
Our next stop was Halifax, my birthplace, with a stop in Peggy’s Cove. It is family friendly at the waterfront boardwalk, fort and more. There’s the Brewery Market, and the unforgettable Harbour Hopper Tours on an old army vehicle that goes into the harbour! In the evening, we took in good east coast music at one of my favourite Canadian pubs, the Lower Deck.
Cape Breton was next, in part to meet cousins we had never met before. Finding our friends’ father’s old homestead in River Bourgeois based on a 50-year-old picture and a serendipitous conversation at our spring garage sale is its own story. As for my wife, she met Glace Bay cousins she had never met, but did they know her: “You look like your mom!”
We wound along highland cliffs, stopped at the beautiful Ingonish Beach and Black Brook Beach before staying in Cape North. There are many places to view the amazing shoreline cliffs. We walked the trails like the Skyline or White Point with waterfalls, open vistas and serenity.
Island Time and the Road Home
We took our fourth ferry ride to PEI and easily travelled across the island to Tignish in a day. North Cape has shallow red sand beaches that stretch endlessly. We also liked the white sands of PEI National Park, Greenwich.
We ended our journey back in St. Andrews by-the-Sea in New Brunswick. It is a seaside town rich with history, music, arts and whale-watching tours.
Reflecting back, our Atlantic road trip had a rhythm and without rushing I was able to appreciate its natural beauty, culture and human endeavours.
