Beautiful views from the Canadian‘s dome car.
By Denise Bacon
Oh Canada! How lucky we are to call this our home and native or chosen land. A train trip on VIA’s The Canadian train from Union Station, Toronto to Pacific Central, Vancouver, a journey across 4,466 kilometers, showcased the vastness and majesty of our country. (This article does not in any way take away the beauty and character of Canada from Ontario east of Toronto right to Newfoundland! That feature will be for another time.)
A tiny bit of apprehension about being “stuck” on a train for 4 days and 4 nights was very quickly put to rest as the welcome in the VIA Passenger Lounge at Union Station put our minds at ease. We travelled with carry-on luggage, so we were directed to our sleeper car to stow away our coats and luggage and start exploring the train. Sipping welcome Mimosas (Champagne & orange juice) while sitting in the domed car got us relaxed immediately as we watched the train start its westward journey promptly at 8 a.m., leaving behind the CN Tower and familiar city sights. Crossing the provinces, across trestle bridges, through ridges and small canyons, across the tremendous prairies and through the mountains was a reminder to pay homage to the thousands of people who laid these tracks to connect our nation in the late 17th century.
The journey across Ontario was a reminder that this is the 2nd largest of Canada’s provinces and it is massive! It was a thrill to stop and stretch out our legs in -30 degree temperature in Sioux Lookout, a place until this trip was just a place on a map. A couple of passengers on the train disembarked here to go back to their homes after they shared their happy life stories about living in Sioux Lookout.
A good lesson learned on this train journey was to simply enjoy the moments. Train time was different from “real time” as we passed from Eastern to Central, to Mountain to Pacific time zones. It was important to pay attention to “Train Time” as meals and activities ran according to this special clock! Speaking of meals, we were treated to gourmet dining complete with white linens and menus for every meal. The dining car had three seatings for each meal which passengers selected in advance. Staff were the epitome of grace and service with the added bonus of great senses of humour. Breakfast while watching the sun break across the Prairie horizon was simply magical.
We learned about Manitoba pride and their special sense of humour. “If you can see your dog outside, it’s summer. If you can’t, it’s snowing!” Elk and wolves ignored the train as they continued doing what they do best – just being.
Saskatchewan is known for producing potash and mining operations dotted the countryside as the train made its way across the province.
As the train left the snow-covered prairies where the horizon was almost beyond sight, the train came upon the gigantic Rockies in Alberta – gradually at first, but there they were in their magnificence, draped in snow and looking down on us.
Coming into Jasper was a reminder of the devasting fire that ripped through the region and half this town in July 2024. Homes and businesses were razed and 25.000 residents and visitors were evacuated at that time. It was heartening to witness the spirit of the people and to see the town rebuilding. The countryside will take longer to heal as new growth is visible among the charred remains of still-standing trees.
The Rockies guided us into British Columbia. Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, graced us with a full un-clouded view. Pyramid Creek Falls, rivers and lakes filled our senses.
“Train time” is actually quite a magical concept. The train often had to stop and wait for freight trains and passengers simply relaxed into this rhythm of go and stop and go, without worry, making friends, sharing stories, joining activities, reading or by simply enjoying the stillness. The train was about 8 hours behind schedule as it pulled into Saskatoon, but magically, it made up time and arrived in Vancouver at 4 a.m., 4 hours ahead of schedule!
Tim, one of the activity managers regaled us with stories about The Canadian train which was built in 1955. The stainless-steel cars remain gleaming, 71 years later, with past glories seeping out of every corner. Prior to the pandemic, travel on The Canadian was luxury primarily enjoyed by a senior demographic who saved for this bucket-list trip across the country. Today, because of stories and photos on social media, people of all ages and from different parts of the world get on board. We met a young couple who fled eastern Ukraine to settle in Canada just after the war started. Having good educations, each of them got good jobs in Halifax and are eagerly awaiting their Canadian citizenship. They learned first-hand how fleeting life can be, so they are living life to the fullest now and they loved traveling across their new homeland in the intimate setting of The Canadian.
A Mennonite family, Mum, Dad and three little ones aged one to four were travelling back from visiting family near farm country in St. Mary’s to their new homestead in Manitoba, about 300 kms north of Winnipeg. Other passengers were intrigued as the Dad described their traditional lives, including travelling by horse by buggy, their education up to Grade 8 only, and their hopes of building a school to serve the dozen Mennonite families who have moved into the area.
Twin sisters from Australia disembarked in Jasper to snowboard before getting back on the train to Vancouver a few days later. Couples from Canada, Britain, Russia and the U.S. spoke about the joys we share together. There were no political arguments! Fred Frailey, a renowned author on railroads was another interesting fellow traveller. A group of 30-something year old men, a solo travelling 19 year old German girl and all other travellers bonded over this shared experience on The Canadian with hopes and plans that our paths will cross again.
We ended this fabulous train adventure in Vancouver, four days after we left Toronto, with our last delicious breakfast in the dining car, saying adieu to staff and new friends.
